Making Shadow Silhouette Portraits

Shadow Silhouette Portraits ~ Family is the most precious gift ~

Recently, I decided to make shadow portraits of my Grandchildren ... all six of them!  It is quite easy to do, very inexpensive,  and does not take much time. Each portrait cost me less than $1.25.

The frames were purchesed at the Dollar Store for $1 each.  The black & white posterboard was .50 cents each. I was able to make six portraits for a total of $7.00.

Materials:
1 frame for each portrait size 8" x 10"
White Posterboard
Black Posterboard
Profile Photo of the child
Printed copy (or photocopy) of the profile photo to fit in an 8 x 10" frame
tape or glue
scissors
pencil or pen



Step 1: (photo below)

Take a profile photo, filling the camera screen almost completely. 
Print the photo out onto a regular 8 1/2" x 11" piece of paper

Step 2:  (photo below)

Carefully, cut out the profile, with scissors.  Make sure you leave little curls, or hair accents in the photo.  It will add interest to the shadow...

Step 3:  (picture below)

Decide if you want your portrait facing left, or right. 
Place the photocopy on the black posterboard, facing the OPPOSITE WAY that you want (you will be tracing the BACK side of the shadow portrait, that way your tracing lines won't show on the front).  In this case, I had to flip the photo over, and trace on the blank back-side.
Carefully, trace around the photocopy.  I used a black fine tip pen.

Step 4:  (photo below)

In the photo below, you can see where I have traced the outline onto my black posterboard.  Carefully, cut the profile out; making sure to pay attention to the facial features that are unique to each child!

Step 5:  (photo below)

Cut a piece of White posterboard, to fit in the 8 x 10" frame.  Place a small piece of folded tape or glue on the back side of your shadow photo.  Tape (glue) it to the white background.  Insert it into the frame.

And it's done!  The project took about 20 minutes to cut the original photo, trace, cut again from the black posterboard and then assemble into the frame. 

I love this project, because it matches any decor and decorating style.  These could look old-fashioned, prinitive, or more contemporary... depending on the colors or paper that is used, and the type of frames they are in.  These shadow pictures will really never look outdated and they are so unique!

Enjoy your family ~ They are the most precious of gifts!

No-Sew Briday Shower or Baby Shower Towel Cake

I made this for a friend of my niece, last weekend.  They are super easy and make a wonderful shower decoration.  These can be made in the brides wedding colors or baby nursery colors as well.

FREE INSTRUCTIONS: on my Craftsy site

http://www.craftsy.com/project/view/No-Sew-Bridal-or-Baby-Shower-Towel-Cake/26693

Snowman Face Applique Free Pattern

Free PDF Pattern to make these cute Snowman Sweatshirts!

http://www.thistlecottage.yolasite.com/snowman.php

Knitted Bug Slippers for Grandchildren

When my Grandchildren spend the night, they love to wear these cute and fuzzy slippers;
sometimes even wearing them to bed!  The bottom is non-slip and slightly water proof (this also prevents excess wear on the yarn sole).  This pattern can easily be adjusted for a smaller or larger foot,
by reducing rows or knitting extra rows; or by changing the size of the knitting needles.

Size: Medium - Fits childrens shoe size 8-12 (appx. ages 3-6)

Materials:
1 ball colored yarn for the body
          (grasshopper green, ladybug red, bumble bee yellow etc...)
1 ball black yarn for the head (or contrast color)
Size 10 knitting needles
Large eye sewing needle (darning needle)
Stitch markers
2 Buttons for Eyes
Appx. 18" of  1/4" wide elastic
1 Roll non-slip shelf liner
       (or substitute 1 Dollar Store non-slip placemat)
Ruler or Tape Measure
Straight Pins or clips

Instructions:
Cast on 23 stitches, leaving a 20" tail of yarn at the first cast on (you will use this to sew the back of the heel later on).
ROW 1:  Wrong Side - Knit into the back of the first st., K6, P1, K7, K6, bring yarn forward, slip last st. purlwise (WS)
ROW 2:  Right Side - Knit into the back of the first st., K21, bring yarn forward, slip last st. purlwise. Place a stitch marker to remind yourself that this is the right side (RS)

Continue repeating rows 1 and 2 until there are 24 rows and you will end with a row on the WS.
Cut yarn, leaving a 6" tail and begin using the black yarn, for the head. 

Black Toe Section:
ROW 1:  Knit Row
ROW 2:  Knit Row
ROW 3:  Knit Row
ROW 4:  Knit Row
ROW 5:  Knit Row
ROW 6:  K1, *K2tog, K3* repeat to the last 2 sts, K2 tog.
ROW 7:  Knit Row
ROW 8:  *K2 tog., K2* repeat to the last 2 sts.,  K2 tog.
ROW 9:  *K2 tog*  repeat to last sts.,  K1

Cut yarn, leaving a 15" tail.  Thread the yarn tail onto darning needle.  Bring the darning needle & tail of yarn through all remaining stitches (removing stitches from the knitting needle as you go). Draw tightly and knot securely.  This will form the "nose". 

Make a seam from the toe to the top of the foot, using the rest of the yarn tail. Knot tightly to secure, and weave in ends.

To finish the heel:  Thread the extra length of heel yarn (from casting on) onto the darning needle.  With right sides together, make a seam from the ankle to 2/3 down towards the heel.  Pinch the sole of the heel upwards to make a "T" shaped gusset, and sew across the opening. This will creat a flat bottom at the heel. Secure, weave in ends and snip excess yarn.

Attach Non-slip Sole: 
Measure the bottom of your slipper (appx. 5" long and 2.5" wide).
Cut 4 pieces of the non-slip liner, per your slipper measurements above (layer 2 pc. for each slipper, for extra durability).  Place the liner on the bottom sole of slipper and pin or clip in place. 

Starting at the back heel, stitch the non-skid sole to the slipper, using a darning needle and yarn.  I found that the yarn could be "woven" through the small holes in the non-slip liner. Knot and weave in ends, cut excess yarn.  In the future, I will experiment with bias binding and machine sewing the non-slip liner to give it a more finished look.

Attach the 2 buttons for eyes. 
Optional: Make a "finger chain"  appx. 2" long, and affix. to the top of the head for Antannae or little bug legs.
Using Black yarn, make a few  "X" on body for ladybug or "Stripes" for Bumblebees - use your imagination!

I also knitted a little "wing" shape, and used it as the grasshoppers hind legs.
When accessories are attached, weave a strip of 1/4" elastic through the top of the ankle. Tie in a knot at the back. This helps to keep the slippers on the little one's feet!

Please send me photos of your Bug Slippers! I would love to share them on my blog!

trailbugz@yahoo.com

Knitted Felted Tote Bag Purse ~ Free Pattern by trailbugz

I knitted and felted this wool tote bag a few years ago, to hold my knitting projects.  However, I loved it so much, that I ended up lining it and I now use it as a fall/winter purse.  It is very roomy, the bottom lays flat and the courduroy lining can be made with pockets, to store your car keys, cell phone, cosmetics and other necessities.

Knitting Skill Level:  Easy

Sewing Skill Level:  Intermediate (uses the felted bag as a pattern)

Finished Size after Felting:  17" Long (without the handle);  15" Wide across the diameter;  30" Around/Circumference.  Handle can be made to any size you wish.  Mine is 2" wide x 26" Long.

              Note:  Sizes are approximate depending on individual knitting gauge

Size Before Felting:  36" Long (without handle);  23" Wide across the diameter;  46" Around the Circumference

              Note:  Sizes are approximate depending on individual knitting gauge and size before felting

Felted Bag Materials:5 Skeins of wool (1 each of 5 different colors)

     I used: Olive Green, Burnt Orange, Dark Red, Eggplant Purple, Golden Yellow
1 skein of beige acrylic "nubby" yarn
Circular Needles size 10 (6.5mm) for the bag
Single pointed needles size 10 for the handle
Yarn needles or large eye hand sewing needle (I used plastic - set of 6 in a pack)
Stitch markers

Knitted Bag Instructions:Starting with the color of your choosing, cast on 150 stitches.  Join to work in the round.  Place a stitch marker at the beginning of the round, so you will know where to end/begin another color.  Knit around and around and around the "circle" (stockinette stitch). 

Change colors at the stitch marker, when the stripe is as wide as you like.  I varied the width of my color bands, to add visual interest to my bag; as I did not want uniform stripes.  (To add a new color: cut your yarn and leave a "tail" of appx. 6".  Begin new color, also leaving a tail.  After a few inches of knitting, go back & knot the two tails of yarn together.  Weave in the ends.)

Every few stripes, knit in 1 row of the "nubby" yarn.  This acryllic yarn will NOT felt, but it creates a bit of depth to the project and looks even nubbier after felting.  In the photos, this is the lightest stripe that runs through my felted fabric.

Continue knitting in various colors and stripe widths of 1" -3"  until the length of the knitted cylinder measures 36" long (or longer). Cast off, tie knot at the end and weave in the tail.

For the handle, Cast on as many stitches as you want for the length.  Knit until the handle is 3x wider than you desire. It will shrink in width, during the felting process. You may want to experiment with using several colors (I used 2 colors). Note: you may also decide to knit two shorter handles, rather than one long handle.

Felting the Bag:Using laundry soap and HOT water, fill the washing machine or large tub.  Agitate for minimum of 30 minutes (I used a tub and BBQ tongs), ensuring that the water stays hot and the knitted fabric remains soapy.  It is the combination of soap & hot water that will felt the wool fibers together.  When the bag has felted and shrunk down to the size you like, rinse in cold water.  Roll it in a large towell, and wring tightly to remove excess water.  Use clothespins and a hanger, to hang it dry overnight. Repeat the felting process for the handle.

Assembling the Bag:Decide which end will be the top of the bag, and which end will be the bottom of the bag.  Turn the bag inside out (right sides together) and match up the bottom (raw) edges.  Machine stitch the bottom edges together. To make a gusset, for a flat bottom; arrange the bag so the new bottom seam is flat on the table (wrong side up).  Measure in appx. 4" from each pointed end.  Machine stitch a seam across

the point, at the 4" mark.  This creates the flat bottom of the bag.  Turn right side out.

Lay bag flat, to find the center sides.  Pin the handle in place.  With coordinating yarn, handstitch handle in place.  Ornamental butons or beads may also be sewn onto the outside of the bag, for extra strength.  If you prefer a cuff, fold the cuff down before attaching the handles, sewing through both layers. 

Make sure the plastic canvas is the same size as the bottom (gusset) of the felted bag. Trim to size, if needed.  Place the 3 layers of plastic canvas on top of each other.  With yarn, "sew" all 3 layers of plastic canvas together. Place the plastic canvas in the bottom of the felted bag, as extra support (these may also be covered in fabric, for a more finished look).

Make the Lining and Accessory Pockets (optional):

Lining Materials:Sewing Machine
1/2 yard of courduroy or wool;  for lining
3 pcs. 7" x 9" Plastic Canvas (for stability on the flat bottom)
Hand sewing needle
Straight Pins
Pencil
Yardstick
Thread to match the lining fabric

Fold your lining fabric in half (right sides together). Flatten out your knitted bag and place it on top of your folded fabric.  Align one side of the knitted bag, against the fold.  And align the top of the knitted bag 1/2" from the top of the fabric.

 

With a ruler and pencil, trace the remaining two sides of the knitted bag, adding 1/2" seam allowance to the bottom and side. Cut on the pencil markings, so you now have a large rectangle (Note: Do not cut the fold, as you will use this rectangle to create a "tube", to fit inside your bag). 

Fold over the top edge of the lining fabric (1/4" then another 1/4"). Press with hot iron and machine top stitch to create a finished hem.

With leftover fabric scraps, create pockets: 
Measure the size(s) of pockets you desire, adding 1/2" on all sides. (Note: I used one long rectangle, stitched down at intervals, to create several pockets with 1 rectangle).  Clip corners, Fold in raw edges, press with iron.

Position pockets on the lining fabric, right sides out (leaving appx. 1" minimum, from the top of the lining).  Pin pockets in place.  Top stitch sides and bottom of all pockets, to the lining fabric. 

With right sides together, Sew the lining fabric up the side, to create a tube. Machine Stitch across the bottom.  Make 4" gussets at each end, as you did above, with the felted bag.

Slip the lining into the felted bag (wrong sides together), ensuring that bottom seam and gussets match up.  Pin in place. 

Pin the top edge of the lining to within 1" of the top of the felted bag. Handstitch lining in place, at the bottom seam and top edges.  (Note: if you have a cuff on the outside of your bag, do not stitch through the outer cuff layer, you will want a "hidden" seam).

I hope you enjoy your bag! I just love mine!

Please let me know if you have any questions! Please feel free to make comments & let me know how yours turned out!